Monday, 2 July 2012

Quest for the Best Rose Perfume: Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Florale

The next rose perfume review in my quest to find the best rose perfume, L’Eau d’Issey Florale, is not your typical rose perfume. L’Eau d’Issey Florale was launched in 2011 and aims to capture the subtle freshness of a newly blooming rosebud.

What they say: The new fragrance, features a new kind of floral scent: that of a breaking rosebud in the course of flowering.
The pursuit of such delicate breath of rose resulted in the birth of a fragrance which unveils the real nature of this flower: the extremity of femininity, purity, and modernity which is typical of the rose petal.
Emphasized by yellow ginger lily, a fresh note with luminous orange blossom accents, and by the depth of white woods, the exquisite floral scent creates an unassuming but distinguished olfactory world.

  • Top Notes: Firnat rose bud, Yellow ginger lily
  • Middle Notes: Mandarin orange
  • Base Notes: White woods

What I Say: My impression after the first sniff of this perfume was that it smelt very much like the original L’Eau d’Issey - a watery floral. I was surprised that this was considered a rose fragrance but then, after a couple of minutes or so, the rose came through. The description of the rose, that of a breaking rosebud in the course of flowering, is very apt. It is a very subtle, delicate rose scent without any of the heaviness that can be associated with rose.

I can definitely detect both the rosebud and the lily top notes. Lily is the very first thing I smell though this is quickly overtaken by the delicate rose. It is a very beautiful, cheerful combination. After about 30 minutes the rose has disappeared on my skin and I am left with the aquatic floral notes. Lily is detectable the entire time though the woody notes become more apparent with time. The perfume also never looses it's aquatic notes so it is always a very cool, refreshing fragrance. My nose cannot pick up any of the citrus (mandarin and orange) middle notes which suit me as I am not overly keen on citrus notes. Perhaps these notes give it a sweetness but other than that, to me, they are undetectable.

L’Eau d’Issey Florale has amazing staying power. Eight hours after spraying it I can still subtly detect it on my skin. It has medium sillage - that is the trail of scent left behind by the perfume. For the first couple of hours it is definitely detectable by others in close surrounds though after this time the sillage drops so it remains closer to the skin.

How does this perfume rate as a rose perfume? It does not scream rose to me, and that is what I am looking for in this quest. The first 30 minutes or so the rose is unmistakable, though much more subtle and delicate that your typical rose perfume. However, thereafter it is more an aquatic floral with woody notes rather than a rose perfume.

Modern or classical? Definitely modern. This is a light, airy, fresh floral and a very modern take on the typical rose perfume.

Day or night? The lightness and freshness of this fragrances makes it a gorgeous scent for daytime wear. It is most definitely cheerful - a very happy fragrance to wear throughout the day.

Summer or winter? This is a fragrance that I would wear in spring or summer. It doesn't have any warm or spicy notes that I tend to look for in fragrances I wear during the winter. Instead, it is fresh and cool.

Would I buy it again?  Yes - but not as a rose fragrance. Although I have always enjoyed wearing the original L’Eau d’Issey as an everyday perfume, I actually like this version even more. Its seems lighter and fresher than the original. The delicate rose is gorgeous; though, as it only lasts about 30 minutes on my skin before being replaced by the watery lily notes, I don't really see it as a rose perfume. However, this might just be the perfect rose perfume for someone wanting a more subtle rose as it is definitely not an in your face rose perfume.

Where to buy? Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Florale is available from Myer or David Jones, $119 for 50ml or $170 for 90ml

Do you prefer rose notes in the perfume you wear to be more subtle or in your face?

All opinions are my own and I received no remuneration for this post. This perfume was provided to me for consideration.